Often this aspect is allowed to deteriorate beyond all redemption before a yard tackles this straightforward repair that can transform the boat's interior, adding value that often exceeds the investment made.

The most often used linings are either foamed or unfoamed vinyls, both of which have been successfully used by different boat builders over the years. Whilst unfoamed vinyls are less expensive initially, don't be fooled, as it is easier to bond foam backed vinyl resulting in a faster, therefore less costly, make up time. So, what do you need to do?

Bonding onto GRP or fixed plywood etc.

First and foremost, do not destroy the old linings as they are the only reliable templates that you have! It is important when cutting to allow 75mm all around to allow for final trimming.

Coachroof Mark a centre line along the coachroof with a corresponding mark on the reverse side of the fabric. Apply a suitable heat resistant contact adhesive such as Dunlop S1358 to 150mm each side of the centre line and leave until tacky.

When tacky, the foam backed vinyl should be sprayed generously with an aerosol glue such as Trade Tack and immediately align the centre line of the fabric to the coachroof and bond together.

To avoid finger indentations bring together with a lambswool paint roller.

In both cases, do not glue right up to the edges but leave a 150mm gap from each end.

You will now have both hands free to process described above working from one side away from the centre line to the edge in 300mm strips before repeating on the other side.

Remember to work no closer than 150mm from any edge. You will fix these borders last of all.

When the main bonding is finished allow at least 24hrs for all adhesives to cure and the vinyl to settle, as it will have stretched slightly during fixing.

You are now ready for finishing.

Finishing Pull back the vinyl and mark the edge of the coachroof with a chalk mark. Next, push the vinyl into the edge to transfer the chalk mark onto the foam.

You now have the precise position for the foam to be scored with a dull blade.

After scoring through the foam, being careful not to cut through the vinyl, tear the foam from vinyl overlap and bond the now unfoamed overlap under the foamed vinyl for a neat edge.

When thoroughly dry bond the final 150mm borders all the way around.

The edge of the vinyl should now sit neatly at the edge of the coachroof.

Alternatively, if the sides are to be lined also, bond the 150mm foamed border and the now unfoamed vinyl from the edge of the coachroof, down the sides or bulkhead 50mm.

This will be covered when you line the sides.

Sides and bulkheads etc.

Mark a horizontal line one third of the way down and a corresponding line on the reverse of the fabric. Proceed as for the instructions when bonding to the coachroof.

After making the initial bond along the marked lines, fix the upper part of the lining before the lower.

To achieve a bond between two lapped and touching vinyl faces, a special lapping adhesive such as SAF 60 is used to weld the vinyl surfaces together. This will avoid the unsightly brown glue line often seen on older vessels that will appear when standard contact adhesives react with the vinyl plasticiser and ooze out over a period of time.

Jointing Joints are going to be obvious, so work along with them by: a) Stitching the fabric together before bonding b) Placing a solid wood trim or similar at the join and laying the fabric up to it, following the guidelines previously mentioned for finishing the edges of the coachroof. c) A false seam at the join can be achieved by trimming away the excess foam on both pieces of vinyl at their point of contact and tucking under and gluing as for the finishing instructions for lapped coachroof edges. This will give you a smooth butt join.

Bonding onto removable plywood liners Apply contact adhesive to the plywood surface when bonding unfoamed vinyl. When touch dry, spray the reverse of the fabric and stretch the fabric over the board working out from the centre of the board in a circular motion.

Pull the vinyl around the edges of the board. Turn the board right side up to allow free air movement over the face to minimise any blistering, and ensure all bubbles and creases are removed from the vinyl face.

When thoroughly dry, glue the vinyl overlap down to the reverse of the board.

When using foam backed vinyl onto removable plywood lining boards you can use contact adhesive or, if there is not too much curvature, waterproof PVA. Only the plywood surface needs to be glued on this occasion.

Whilst still wet lower the glued board down onto the upturned piece of foamed vinyl.

After turning the vinyl face up and removing any bubbles, leave to dry thoroughly before removing the foam from the overlap and bonding or stapling with stainless steel staples onto the reverse of the board - seediagram .