Developments afoot

Especially when the game in question has been changing underfoot.

A number of different British manufacturers have had to work harder to continue keep their growth going as traditional sources of materials have come under a squeeze, causing both leather and labour costs to skyrocket. However, whether you consider it a curse or a blessing, alongside this has been a ‘sea change’ around what many people want from their sailing experience.

So, it’s notable that quite a few of the manufacturers are singing from the same song book while still differentiating their products.

Sources
Philip Marsh of Chatham Marine explains costs have risen and, as he says: 'You have to keep a certain buffer against extremely labile exchange rates.'. So his approach has to be upgrade product rather than simply react by raising prices.

Both he and Graham Allen of Henri Lloyd agree it’s not been easy: the companies have put a lot of time and effort into carefully sourcing our materials. This means the different components come from areas spread broadly across the globe, America, Europe, Asia... and in turn this means a certain vulnerability to currency changes.

So, to make your products stand out from the rest, you have to leverage in that ‘extra value’. Luckily, for the UK, this means capitalising on innovation and technical know-how, and it’s something that, despite our much touted ‘skills drain’, Britain is still great at.

Mr Marsh adds it helps there has been a big increase in demand for high performance shoes: ‘A lot more people want to push the boundaries and be a bit more risky,’ he says.

Innovation
So, Chatham has been thinking very hard about what kind of innovation could get around the recent price and supply chain issues. Luckily, the company has a very large design and development team in the UK and it’s come up with some interesting technical crossovers.

For example, the Schooner, part of the G2 Professional range, makes use of a lightweight, shock absorbing Phylon mid sole and full length padded footbed, which was originally developed for high impact sports.

The Schooner upper is made from premium waxy leathers and nubucks, with mesh panel inserts to keep things fresh. The sole is unusual in that it is lightweight and made from sticky rubber, with suction pads providing on-board grip while the channels extract water and provide added stability.

Lifestyle
On the other hand, Chatham also has value as a lifestyle brand. Calling it the fashion end is a bit of a misnomer because what people ashore are really after, according to Mr Marsh, is the good quality of a traditional deck shoe.

‘They really are very comfortable, flexible and adaptable shoes.’ Or, as one fan translates, ‘They are easy to wear, they go with everything from suits to trainers and I haven’t had to bother about socks for at least seven months - beside which they are very good at dealing with wet and sweaty feet...’ Well, yes, thanks for the information.

Actually, Mr Marsh bears this out. ‘We might put something very eye-catching in the window, but what really sells, and keeps selling, are the very traditional designs, like the Enduro G2 range.’

Having said this, the company has found room to branch out into a land-side as well as on-board Chatham Life range. New styles for men and women include the Jib and Antibes respectively, a classic lace-up trainer in washed canvas with suede overlays, featuring a new vulcanised construction (where the rubber curtain and bumpers for the sole are melted together on the last for high quality), and a full-length perforated padded sock for even more comfort. The slip-resistant rubber sole features aqua jet channelling for extracting water and providing added stability.

Changes
Graham Allen of Henri Lloyd agrees there have been changes in sailing styles recently, possibly, he says, because it’s appealing to a new generation of sailors who want physical challenges and a high octane lifestyle.

‘There’s more short haul, short keel racing, seeing more action and a lot more movement - and water - on the deck,’ he explains. This means that wear needs to be lighter and able to take on regular dousing, and there’s also less space to be had for stowage.

Looking at this last point, Henri Lloyd has developed a very successful range of waterproof luggage that comes with a clever integrated valve. This releases the air out of the bag so you can let out all the excess, unused volume.

However, on the footwear front, Mr Allen, like others, explains that there have been a lot of issues around our own not-so-buoyant pound in comparison with the traditional suppliers’ booming economies.

Differentiation
In particular, footwear has been impacted. Things like leather supply chains and exchange rates have, since the downturn, pushed style to a larger extent than before. ‘Faced with the market conditions, it was an active choice to differentiate the HL products as much as possible, and lead with the technology,’ says Mr Allen.

So HL has focused on very strong, use specific products like Octogrip, which has a synergy with the increase in intense, high-energy day racing. Mr Allen explains that although the HL brand isn’t cheap, ‘it’s extremely good value for money when you take into consideration the R&D that goes into it’.

He explains, polymer developments have meant HL designers have come up with a shoe including a robust skeleton constructed through injection moulded Textured PU. This despite its extremely lightweight, still gives support for the foot. Further, rubber compounds have become sticker, and the shoe’s sole was developed through looking at tyre treads.

This led to the development of interconnecting water dispersal channels that push the water away from between the sole and deck, providing a firm footing.

Also, the shoe has been built to get wet, but dry fast, thanks to the mesh upper and drainage holes built into the Textured PU toe guard. And the continuous shockcord, speed lacing system helps to provide plenty of support even in the most extreme situations.

Gill too has been capitalising on technology and has differentiated between the various kinds of sailing – making the boots fit the experience as well as the sailor. Nick Gill explains: ‘The new boots and shoes have been developed to suit different techniques’ so, each of the three new designs – Hiking Boots, Trapeze Boots and Aquatech Shoes – have specific features appropriate to their use.

Technology
Gill has been capitalising on technology and has differentiated between the various kinds of sailing – making the boots fit the experience as well as the sailor. Nick Gill explains, ‘The new boots and shoes have been developed to suit different techniques so, each of the three new designs – Hiking Boots, Trapeze Boots and Aquatech Shoes – have specific features appropriate to their use.

For example, the Hiking Boots have new outer soles made from a non-marking ‘sticky grip’ compound for improved traction and stability. Overall, the boot has been developed with a fairly rigid sole along with ankle supports to help spread a lot of the lateral strain from sitting out. Rubber reinforcement is added across the top of the boots to counter abrasion from dinghy toestraps.

Gill’s Trapeze Boots have been designed with flexibility in mind. Nick Gill explains: ‘If you wore the trapeze boot on a shingle beach you’d feel the stones through the bottom but in terms of being on a boat, and feeling your way around the deck, it’s the next best thing to having bare feet but with better grip and protection.’

The supple soles and rubber reinforcement across the top of the feet are good when sailing on the wire or crouching and kneeling when moving around the boat.

Both designs now include wraparound Velcro straps for a better fit around the ankle. They are made from 5mm neoprene with blind-stitched seams for a good comfortable seal and include zips with Velcro locking tabs and a gusset to reduce water ingress.

The Aquatech Shoes, suitable for a variety of watersports, now have soft-touch Glideskin cuffs for extra comfort, and adjustable straps for a tighter fit and improved support. The shoes are based on wraparound, non-marking natural rubber soles that provide better grip, with uppers made from 2mm double-lined neoprene for thermal protection with flatlocked seams. Supratex abrasion resistant panels help protect when hiking.

New release
However, the new product hot off the press is Gill’s Skiff Boot (which is being shown to the trade but isn’t yet on general release).

And again it reflects a certain change in the market for faster paced sailing. Mr Gill explains that the really clever thing about the lightweight Skiff boot is its internal split toe design, which gives maximum traction and swift movement around the boat. ‘In particular the split toe prevents your foot from rolling within the boot - and the thin sole design allows you to feel the deck and ensures that as much of your foot is in contact with the boat at any one time.’

Bags have to be completely waterproof and marine friendly as dinghy sailing or other watersports means wet changing rooms and wet floors – plus the usual problems with stowage space. So, fabrics need to be waterproof and designed to be collapsible down to pretty much nothing.

Design
But there are a few more basic design issues for sailors, says Mr Gill. The Cargo bag, he explains, is a case in point. ‘One set of end pockets has drainage holes because so you can store wet sailing boots, but what you don’t want is the whole thing getting soggy.’ However the other end is dry and completely waterproof so you can separate the dirty and clean clothing.

Better yet, you can alter the proportions of wet to dry depending on where you are in your journey. The Cargo bag has been really well sized too, as it holds a week’s worth of clothing or a weekends’ worth of wet-suits and gear.

The Jumbo bag, says Nick Gill, follows the same principle, but it's been put on wheels simply making it easier to move around when it’s full.

On the other hand, Gill’s simple Cylinder bags have a transparent section, with a clever roll over system that forms a handle while keeping everything completely dry. Mr Gill explained: ‘So, if there are bits of technology you think you just can’t do without, like a mobile phone, just put it into one of these bags and if you’ve sealed it properly, you can be sure the bag will keep the waves and weather out.’

He adds that some people use the bags as emergency grab bags and even floatation devices, and they are not expensive, running from £12 to £35.

Trusted
Musto has taken up the technology angle with its GripDeck sole, an innovation which has evolved into the GD-360 model which provides a better, 360° traction due to redesigned channelling.

Amy Smith of Musto says that while the development is not new, it's a tried and very much tested part of Musto’s brand development. The sole features a rubber composite developed especially by the company and the result of combining this especially sticky compound with the wider water channels is to help reduce the possibility of aquaplaning when the decks are covered in water.

Further, the razor cut outsole provides an edge grip when subject to angled pressure.

One of Musto’s interesting offerings that utilises the GD-360 sole is the Match, a lightweight neoprene-lined sailing shoe that can be slipped on and tightened using the bungee lace.

Also taking advantage of the GD-360 sole is Musto’s Leather Performance Deck Shoe – which, as Ms Smith says, appeals to those who want a traditional look. It’s 100% leather uppers and also leather lined. There's a concealed shock absorbing mid-sole, a padded tongue and collar for snug fit and increased comfort, and like the boot it has a removable, anatomically shaped and cushioning footbed.

On the luggage side, an innovative solution from Musto is its new Dry Packs which are guaranteed waterproof. The company uses innovative heat sealed straps on the bags, and have avoided zips entirely, utilising a folding top closure so the pack is impenetrable by water. The heat sealed seams are complemented by very secure buckles and the range comes in a number of shapes and sizes from long, to square and wide, right up to large (57ltre) capacities.

On the whole, you’d have to admit that given the squeeze, a number of manufacturers are innovating their way out of what is actually a very tight corner with a bit of style.

Here’s hoping that the squeeze doesn’t get any closer to the bone.