Can aspiration meet innovation?

However, for some companies - like Chatham Marine and Musto - helping people dress the part even if they never get out onto the water has become a long-term plan, and 'simply because one year on the market conditions don't look favourable, it doesn't mean it will stop,' says Musto 's PR firm.

The technical issues do impact on the High Street. Musto has kept faith with Gore-Tex, capitalising on its strong links with innovation, and the company's longstanding top-of-the-range HPX collection is still Gore-Tex based - although this year's cheaper BR2 non-Gore offshore sailing range, and BR1collection for coastal and inshore has also been backed up by advances in mid and base layers.

Nevertheless, last year saw the family firm company sell 75% of its shares to private equity company Phoenix, which has meant a certain change of direction. So, although Musto is cagey about its new range before the unveiling at METS, there is definitely something waiting in the wings.

One thing, however, is certain: Musto is now looking to diversify its distribution channels and snag its fair share of those 'aspirational' customers by aiming at regular consumer outlets and expanding its small store network into a significant chain. Asked whether this will impact on the chandlers, the company says its technical sailing markets will be largely unaffected - though how the chandlers will fare if there is a big overlap where technical sailing wear and aspirational apparel meet is anybody's guess.

Layering has been around for many years, but increased versatility has come through R&D. For example, temperature maintenance is the centre of Henri Lloyd's 2009 Phase Change collection. It's made from the company's innovative TP 'memory polymers' which have micropores that close up or open depending on temperature - while remaining both water and windproof. This means a lighter set of garments that can be worn individually or together.

The Ocean Explorer offshore range, however, is made from good ol' Gore-Tex, although with a new twist: the membrane is bonded to both the outer material and inner lining. Again, this is about reducing weight and speeding up the drying time. HL has also added transparent hood panels, allowing wider peripheral vision without losing protection.

The company's Octogrip Trainer also has weight and flex in mind, featuring an injection-moulded TPU exoskeleton alongside fast draining channels, mesh panels, removable insoles and, for extra hygene, the uppers have an anti-fungal finish. Both the trainer and the Extreme Boot share a light, shock absorbent midsole, along with sticky rubber and a sole tread pattern designed for grip.

It's worth noting that Henri Lloyd has recently opened its sixth sailing store. Many of these stores are fairly new additions centred around the south coast, joining outlets in London and Manchester, as well as its other European shops. An ambitious programme - especially given recent conditions.

Nick Gill, on the other hand, points out: 'Unlike some of our competitors, Gill is not aiming for the High Street. It may be a smaller business overall, but its focus is extremely sharp.'

Gill's rejection of expensive branded materials allowed the company to continue developing and testing its own very specific marine alternatives (Mr Gill points out that Gore-Tex is merely developed for the 'outdoors') while not paying too much attention to fashion issues.

For example, Gill's new OS2 - made from a two layer fabric plus lining - doesn't really appear much different to the original offshore range. However, amongst other things, the outer shell fabric has benefited from a laminate construction that lays very evenly across the top of the weave, rather than the more traditional coatings which have to penetrate the fabric to glue themselves in place. The result is lighter and more flexible, or as Mr Gill puts it: 'Distinctly less "crackly" and more comfortable to wear.'

Down a level, the issue with weight and ease comes up again: the 2009 Keelboat Racer range uses a tried and tested three layer material that has been put together with fewer seams, reducing weight and increasing manoeuvrability.

Of course, comparisons will always be made, but Gill says its materials aren't just cheaper, but perform better than the branded products. It's worth noting that the OS2 set - jacket and trousers - comes to market at just a slice of that of Musto or Henri Lloyd's Gore-Tex offshore ranges.

On the marketing side, Gill doesn't have its own outlets so the approach of 'shops within shops' has come up as a way to keep the management and ownership with the chandlers, while carving out a distinct brand area.

Line 7 isn't particularly interested in diversification - it already has a solid presence in New Zealand and Australia. So the company has a very specific aim in mind: to re-penetrate the UK/European marine trade. This year's METS is a big event for the company, a trade debut, a place to sign up distributors and a way back into the market that the company left in the 1980s to consolidate its activities.

Competing head to head with players like Musto and Henri Lloyd, but without the benefit of branded materials like Gore-Tex, has resulted in Line 7 developing its Aquatec range.

Greg Flynn, Line 7's sales manager, explained: 'While the fabric provides equivalent levels of waterproofing, breathability and durability to its competitors, the one thing that sets the product apart is simply that it is the lightest available fabric of its type.'

Helly Hansen, a 130-year old company that made its name in the 70s with technical and oil-industry survival gear, is looking to boost its sales and visibility by a raft of measures, from giveaway merchandising stands to dedicated areas in larger independent retailers. It seems the company is putting a lot of energy into keeping a foot in all possible camps - including innovation.

For example, the company's own lightweight three-layer HellyTechXP fabric is used on the Ocean Racing range. This comes as either a one or a two-piece suit. The new layering pieces feature new X shaped fibres, which, along with the other layers, allow for particularly quick evaporation.

'It doesn't come cheap,' agrees John Wright of Helly. However, he reckons the looming credit crunch means that sailors want to know their investment is right in both form and performance. 'People are getting more technically aware,' he says. 'It used to be that the heavier the jacket, the more robust and more waterproof it was thought to be - but now customers are just much more savvy. At the same time, people want to know that they look good in what they put on, either ashore or on board.'

The company's recognition of the need for visual appeal has meant a distinct look for the offshore women's line: colour and styling giving a feminine, classic look while keeping up the specifications.

Issues of weight and comfort come up again with the latest Helly Welly, which is both breathable and has lightweight midsole supports. The Hydro Power II watersports shoe is again very light and quick drying with Lifa mesh panels and perforated release pockets in the outsole and midsole.

However, Helly Hansen is also after carving out a niche in an unlikely market by launching an environmentally friendly R&D department - and the company has also gone as far as eliminating harmful PTFE from the breathable membranes in all of its products.

'Fun' and 'quirky' is not the kind of product you would probably have associated with the old Chatham Marine, but this is how the new managing director is describing its 2009 range. Then again, the company has changed somewhat since being brought out by the Stuart Marsh Group earlier this year, and MD Prabhu Kashap is attempting a delicate manoeuvre: to win a new audience without alienating the old one.

The company now has new management, new working practices, new premises and yes - a new image, and product range. As Mr Kashap says: 'Many of our potential audience are not yachties, yet they understand the quality sought by yachties and even though they are unlikely to go anywhere near a yacht or marina, they still aspire to and understand the look of marine-influenced footwear and apparel.'

The new company has also invested heavily in the latest technology, bringing a crossover from climbing shoe design, and introducing a dual fitting foot bed along with other innovations to its design.

'The sluicing allows water to escape quicker and the joint lines provide flexibility when walking. There are also different textures on the outer sole giving optimum performance when worn on different surfaces on the deck of a boat,' says Mr Kashap, adding that another change to the design is that the sole is now being stitched to the uppers as the biggest reason for shoe returns is the two pieces parting company.

Rob Crowe says Ronstan's CL8 Dinghy Regatta Smock is completely redesigned for 2008 and builds on the popularity of the previous version. Waterproof with a high breathability shell with fully taped seams, the smock is front opening with a water resistant zip to give maximum water protection in cold conditions and gusset-free design gives superior ventilation when things heat up.

Dual chest pockets with water resistant zips provide easy access; even when wearing a PFD.

New action cut means a closer fit, but still full freedom of movement for the most demanding manoeuvres.