Technical clothing: making a difference

‘There’s no doubt it’s tough out there’ says Philip Marsh of Chatham, ‘but this has resulted in us searching harder for unique offerings.’

Nick Gill of Gill Marine agrees – at least as far as this is concerned.

‘While the overall market may not be growing, new innovative fabrics and product ranges have fuelled demand. Today’s sailing garments have improved enormously, not just in design and fabrics but in the detail and the garment fit,’ says Mr Gill, adding that this push toward innovation has helped boost the company’s export sales – which now accounts for 65% of its business.

It is, after all, a marriage of innovation and insight – you do need an eye to which way the cookie is likely to crumble (at time of writing Line 7 is once again in receivership, and although there is a buyer, the company will probably be concentrating on markets closer to its NZ roots).

Henri Lloyd, for example, has a new range aimed at covering our conscience as well as our behind. The company is going green with its Blue Eco range and what it calls an ‘infinite recycling loop’.

This means that after chemical decomposition, the clothing is converted into raw polyester, offering a purity comparable to the original petroleum product. This basic component can then be spun into high-quality Eco Circle Fibres and used to manufacture new – also recyclable - products.

‘Repeated recycling achieved with the Eco Circle system reduces both energy consumption and carbon dioxide emissions, each by approximately 80% compared to conventional petroleum-based processes,’ explains HL’s partner in the scheme, recycling specialist Teijin.

It is an interesting possibility, but as yet HL are not yet saying whether you’d get some loot off the next Eco jacket or hi fit trousers you buy (although that would be a welcome option), so for the whole story, it is a case of waiting till January.

However, the range is still fully up to spec: the jacket is stylish yet functional with features including articulated elbows and underarm sections. The storm flap has a drainage channel that covers a two-way non-corrosive zip. There are adjustable hems and cuffs, a fleece-lined collar, inner security pocket and two large fleece-lined hand-warmer pockets. The design of the jacket offers room for generous layering, a rollaway articulated hood that can be adjusted with one hand and an articulated hood pod.

The Blue Eco Hi-Fit trousers are well cut and articulated for a comfortable fit, with elasticated back waist, fully adjustable elasticated shoulder straps, and ankle adjusters. They also have knee and seat reinforcement for extra durability. The front zip opening has an internal gusset, and the quick access leg pocket has a handy drainage system.

Although the range is called ‘Blue Eco’, the colours include carbon, marine, topaz and yellow, and comes in sizes from XS to XXL for around £135 for the jacket and £120 for the trousers.

Henri Lloyd’s versatile Atmosphere 360 collection features a number of ‘crossover’ products, from jackets and fleeces to vests, for use in both marine and other high activity sports. The range has benefitted from further developments and now provides a breathable, high stretch, quick drying dual purpose system that also offers UV protection from the sun’s harmful rays.

The articles in the next to skin range - comprising the Atmosphere, Atmosphere 2, and Atmosphere 3 (available at between £25 and £40 depending on the version) - are designed to be worn either independently in warm conditions, or as the base in a layering system. All three products are made of a highly durable, extremely lightweight, easy care, multiple layer Fast-Dri fabric to help wick away moisture from the skin.

The UV protection guide on all Henri Lloyd products are rated 30-50 based on the ‘Aussie Rules’ method, (a sliding scale from 0-50), and all benefit from flat lock seams for increased comfort. The Atmosphere is the entry level product and is available in long sleeve or short sleeve versions, including a women’s fit, while the Atmosphere 2 has underarm mesh panels to aid breathability plus a third, high-wicking layer within the construction of the fabric to accelerate moisture evaporation. On top of this, the Atmosphere 3 incorporates a brushed inner layer to increase its thermal properties.

The most interesting feature of the Atmosphere 2 & 3 is the addition of silver ion anti-microbial technology which has been impregnated into the Fast-Dri material. This repels bacteria and helps reduce body odour when the garments are used for prolonged periods of activity – which means less pong in confined cabins or other tight spaces.

Helping manufacturers prise a niche in the market, the ‘extra’s are getting their share of innovation too. Henri Lloyd has the new CSL luggage range – which includes a holdall featuring a valve that squeezes out excess air, allowing it to be stowed in the minimum of space (the 55L Dry Holdall is around £70). The company meanwhile developed the new Quantum sunglasses which go beyond polarized lenses to hydrophobic water and dirt repelling qualities, (selling for about £85 a pair).

HL has also come up with a lightweight shoe that incorporates a robust skeleton constructed of highly durable injection moulded textured PU, interconnecting water dispersal channels and a fast drying sports mesh. Further, the shoes have a sticky compound-rubber outsole. The shoe has been built to get wet but dry fast, and still provide grip and support. The Octogrip Stealth comes in white or carbon for sizes 6 – 12, and sells for £70 a pair.

Gill’s ‘insight’ is based firmly on research – of both product and market. For example, the company capitalised on its relationships and sent detailed questionnaires to 270 race crew members to help it design its new OS2 Offshore range. One result has been the introduction of a three-layer smock to the range, making it much more comfortable and easier to get on and off.

The big advantage of a smock over a jacket is you get significantly reduced water ingress if, for example, you are working on the bow in poor conditions. This is achieved through a comfortable and adjustable PU neck seal and easy to close neoprene waistband.

Further, BB has got wind of Gill’s upcoming Race Collection which will be launched in January. Nick Gill explains that the company believed no-one had completely analysed the requirements – so Gill sent designers out sailing with the top race teams. ‘People are always looking for a competitive edge in their racing yachts - but have not always considered that having the right gear gives them an edge too.’ He adds that the weight saving alone is important – especially combined with an unrestricted freedom of movement. This has resulted in a performance jacket which Gill believes to be the lightest on the market.

And Gill is not above being ‘strategic’ (or sneaky, whichever way you see it). When the company was researching its new glove range, it gave sailors a chance to simply exchange their old ones (of any brand) for a nice new pair from Gill. Gill researchers then carefully examined all those handed in, and made sure the company’s next range stepped right over the snags shown by the older pairs. One of the results is that the range was extended to include specific sizing and fit for women.

However, in amongst all this innovation there’s a good case for keeping faith with your roots. For example, Gill’s classic Crew Jacket (costing £80) has been a staple product for quite some time. Mr Gill explains that the materials have improved, ‘but the development has been sure and steady, you wouldn’t notice the changes unless you compare the first one against the last.’ The item has, says Mr Gill, been evolving for about 10 years (and add another decade onto that if you include its forerunner, the Pilot jacket).

Made from a softer and smoother fabric than its forerunners, the jacket is still breathable and fully waterproofed. The crew jacket also includes a warm internal fleece lining, fleece lined zipper pockets, and a good height fleece lined collar - useful for keeping warm on cooler days in the boat park or around the marina.

Even here, Gill is looking for a market edge and has left space to optimise the area for corporate and team logos. The addition of an extra long internal ghost zip on the inside seam allows access to the internal lining of the jacket for easy additional branding, a corporate service which can be supplied by Gill.

In addition to the classic colour options of red, navy and charcoal, the new crew jacket is also available in a vibrant lime green.

Chatham has a range of fashionable fleeces, shirts, trousers and shorts can also easily be embroidered with boat or crew names – and in keeping with the idea of getting noticed, the colours are getting more vibrant too. The all-rounder Bilbao fleece (RRP £75) is available in red and Storm Blue, while the Moray twill ladies trousers are available in jade, navy and red (priced around £55.00).

However, the company’s main staple is still its footwear. This has recently been helped by the likes of Gucci, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana, all who have featured deck shoes in recent ranges. ‘It’s a trend that has filtered down to the fashion stores’ says Philip Marsh – although he is quick to point out that the specifications are still very high.

In fact, the company has gone for a two year guarantee to make its Enduro G2 collection stand out – a first for the UK. Philip Marsh explains that this helps not only the customer to feel they can rely on the shoes to wear well, but also supports the chandler in sales activities – Chatham’s message to the chandlers is, ‘we can help’ – and has got dedicated Chatham product stands, training and sales teams on the case. Mr Marsh points out: ‘You go to the chandlers to get rope, not shoes… so by its nature shoes are more likely to be an impulse buy. This means the chandlers have to believe in our products – or they simply won’t make the most of the sales opportunities that come their way.’

And Mr Marsh knows the shoes will be good for the two year guarantee too. Although he admits it is ‘a brave step into the unknown’ in the way of a marketing strategy, he says that the company has tested the shoes thoroughly over the past year and are confident this is the way forward.

‘The Enduro G2 collection has rot proof threads and rust proof eyelets, allowing these shoes to withstand all that nature can throw at them,’ he says. Chatham’s shoes are hand-stitched on the last with a moccasin construction, which ensures secure comfort and fit.

Included in the range will be Chatham’s new wide-fit deck shoe for men, the Rockwell G2 which is made from premium pull-up leather in a selection of colours. The ladies’ Enduro G2 collection ranges from £65 - £69 and the mens’ collection ranges from £69 - £79 RRP.

US company Teva (www.teva.com) has a ‘heritage’ philosophy backing up its entry to the UK market. For a start, the name Teva comes from a Hebrew word meaning nature, while part of the logo is native American Indian in origin.

Proud of its grass roots (and slightly hippyish) beginnings in 1984, the company says it began selling its footwear out of a van to friends and fellow boaters at the various stops along the Grand Canyon. These early designs coupled the freedom of a flip-flop with the security of an ankle strap, becoming an instant hit. Even now, as a commitment to its own beginnings, these first styles - the Original, the Ultimate Thong and the Universal Buckle – have been kept within Teva’s collection.

However, it is a big step into the present with its technically challenging market, and the company hasn’t backed away from innovation. Its new range of deck shoes, the Long Wharf collection for men, features an extra step during the tanning process which makes the lace-up shoes easy to care for and stain resistant while protecting the look and feel of the leather. The waterproofing is accomplished by closing the areas between the grain in the leather while maintaining breathability, much like waterproof breathable fabrics.

The shoes have a molded PU sockliner and midsole with ports and mono-mesh windows for drainage. The base construction is from a non-marking and versatile rubber compound – the Spider Rubber cupsole keeps its grip in the wet or dry while remaining durable. The Seasyde shoe is around £85 while the Pelican’s SRP is £90.

Musto has the Evolution range, which also came about from looking at the gap in the market presented by racing. The company saw a need to fill out its range, since those who are involved in ‘very active’ sailing can often find themselves competing in the kind of warm winds and seas you can find in the Mediterranean or Pacific – while the sailors still want to be dry and comfortable. However, the designs are just as applicable to the top UK events such as Cowes.

The LPX material on which the range is based is extremely breathable, based as it is on tried and tested GoreTex, but bonded with a new layer. It also benefits from being incredibly light – good protection from the elements being now a matter of grams rather than kilograms.

‘It is really a question of responding to today’s market’ explains Musto: keelboat racing, for example, requires layers that both allow almost unrestricted movement as well as breathing well.

However, because of the active nature of the sport, there are specific demands for durability alongside the other factors with abrasion resistant areas on the seat, knees and arms – just as well, since these GoreTex fabrics are not the cheapest on the market.

Further, the Evolution Lite jacket can also be shoved into a big pocket or rucksack: very useful when you are on the move, either by water or on land. The Paclite Shell is the lightest (weighing in at 115 gsm) and the most stowable in the Gore-tex range, while the item still has the collection’s breathability and taped seams for complete waterproof integrity.

The men’s version is available in practical black; the ladies’ style comes in black or white and includes an adjustable hood. Both designs have showerproof and windproof zips throughout and two zipped front pockets.

This is one definitely aimed at the broader market: the company says the jacket ‘will take you from Heathrow to Porto Cervo, the Helford to the Hellespont, on the rail or out in town.’ The Evolution Lite jacket will cost around £160.

Helly Hansen has the new Hydro Power range, which has been designed with inshore racing, day sailing and RIB driving in mind. The range consists of technical jackets, bibs and mid-layers, alongside a fashionable lifestyle collection which consists of fleeces, polo’s and pants.

Tor Jenssen of Helly says that the latest round of designs have been inspired by developments for the Ericsson Racing Team in the latest Volvo Ocean Race, and adds that ‘High activity inshore racing needs lighter weight garments, better movement and better breathability,’ so once again we have competitive racing items leading the way. However, it is an important point that these designs, says Mr Jenssen, have not been so much about different materials as much as gaining insight into how to use the existing fabrics better. This has led to developments in construction and reinforcement while mixing fabrics and technologies in new and smarter ways. Mr Jenssen also points out that the Volvo connection also has opened up the market to more youthful and progressive designs.

So, the hip length Hydro Power race jacket for men is lightweight, quick drying and made using Helly Tech 02 waterproof stretch fabric for ease of movement. Other features include reinforced elbows, articulated arms, adjustable PU cuffs, 360º reflective elements and a high visibility hood. It is available in white or water blue, RRP £280.

To increase protection and minimise exposure, sailors can team jackets with the HP bib (RRP £150), and layer up with the range’s fleece (RRP £70), available in both male and female versions.

Iconic pieces from Helly also include the Hydro Power Lift Jacket for men and women (RRP £220). This lightweight jacket has been made with a fully waterproof and breathable two layer construction for full protection and freedom of movement at sea. Inner PU cuffs and adjustable outer cuffs provide a complete water seal - even when arms are raised - and a Polartec fleece lined collar ensures comfort and warmth in all conditions. Safety is paramount to Helly Hansen and the Lift Jacket features reflective elements on the arms, a highly visible ocean hood and kill chord ring. Nicely, the women’s version of this jacket has been styled with a flattering, feminine fit – which mean everyone gets to feel that they are looking as good as possible (given the wind and spray) while getting on with the job in hand.

So it seems that the recent uncertainties of the market hasn't really taken much wind out of the sails of progress – and may have even sharpened the game. Nick Gill remarks that ‘12 months ago none of us were sure exactly where we would find our selves today,’ putting his own company’s success down to concentrating on the purely technical side of marine clothing.

However it is just as true that others have been carving their own niche in the market in order to weather whatever the economy throws at us next – an environment which seems at times to be a damn sight less predictable than the Atlantic, albiet still 'sailable'.